Is supermarket fashion ethical?

Buying clothes from Asda, Tesco or Sainsbury's once carried a bit of a stigma. Now affordable supermarket fashion has become a bit of a hit. But is there a greater cost?

When I was younger supermarket clothes were seen as a bit naff. Most people my age would die of embarrassment if they were exposed as owning a pair of Tesco jeans or a top from Asda.

Now though as the recession bites and purse strings tighten, nabbing a bargain is becoming something to brag about, no matter where you find it.

Ticking all the boxes

What’s great is that nowadays supermarkets seem to be ticking all the right boxes.

Clothes are available for all shapes and sizes. Women’s lines for example usually have items sized between eight and 24.

Catwalk looks are closely recreated, while celebrity collaborations help to give a range that bit more edge. Sainsbury’s for example has had TV stylist Gok Wan design the TU range since 2011.

Supermarket fashions are leading innovation as well. In 2010 George at Asda launched a series of firsts like the ‘moob tube’ (a vest for men to disguise moobs) as well as in-between jean sizes.

Plus being able to grab something from womenswear, childrenswear and menswear at the same time as your weekly food shop is incredibly convenient. And shopping for the whole family’s bits and pieces increases the opportunity to earn points through loyalty cards.

But as well as convenience the clothes are incredibly affordable compared to the high street alternatives.

Autumn/winter essentials

Affordability and a greater push towards following trends have helped people like me who would never have dreamt of throwing a Christmas party dress in my trolley along with my tinned tomatoes to reconsider.

For example, one autumn trend this year is military-look coats and jackets.

On the high street, at River Island this fashion key piece could cost around £80 or a cheaper alternative can be found at New Look for £54.99.

But with George at Asda you can get a decent looking take on the trend for £35. And at Tesco F&F you could get one that has the added bonus of leather-look detailing (another trend) for the same price.

Of course the style, cut and fit will factor into it for some, but for a £20-£45 saving it’s hard to resist.

Given these rock bottom prices it’s not surprising that shoppers have been tempted out of the tinned food aisle and into the world of supermarket fashion.

But is it ethical?

In June 2008 Primark, famous for its affordable clothing, hit the headlines after a BBC Panorama investigation showed images of the retailer's suppliers in India using child labour.  However, these images were successfully challenged by Primark last year and the BBC Trust admitted that the footage was not genuine. 

Yet some of the other revelations about the company's supply chain, like poor working conditions for those working in some of the factories still stood. At the time Primark dealt with these revelations by sacking three of its suppliers for breaching its strict ethical standards.

The company was dealt another blow when it was revealed later in January 2009 that a supplier to many fashion retailers including Primark was employing illegal workers in the UK and paying them below minimum wage.

Supermarkets, by the nature of their similarly cheap prices, have raised suspicions with accusations circulating every so often in the media.

So in-line with growing public concerns about where cheap products are coming from, a good ethical image has shot up on the agenda for retailers. The trouble for most companies is that they didn’t know how to go about it.

Ethical Trading Initiative

The Ethical Trading Initiative was set up in 1998 to help.

The body is made up of NGOs and trade unions that assist the member companies to define best practice and drive positive change. Asda and Tesco are founding members of the initiative, while Sainsbury’s and M&S are also involved.

The body appears to have some clout considering ethical champions the Body Shop and Cooperative are also members. Plus the ETI was involved in helping Primark improve practices following the issues raised about its supply chain in 2008/2009, providing recommendations which Primark implemented in a more robust code of conduct.

Making changes

Now you will find that supermarkets and other retailers have an expansive ethical and environmental strategy.

Marks & Spencer has committed to a project called ‘Plan A’ which aims to make the company the most sustainable retailer by 2015. One branch of its expansive vision is called ‘shwopping’. This is an ongoing campaign in conjunction with Oxfam where shoppers donate old clothes in-store to be resold, reused or remade into something new. For more read M&S to reward 'shwopping' with discounts.

Tesco has similar ongoing projects and has made other changes for ethical reasons.

Asda has published the results of a turnaround at its factories in Bangladesh in a report called Doing the Right Thing, which sets out plans for future projects in India and China. The report claims it has managed to achieve a 14% increase in wages and a 5% drop in labour turnover and by 2013 wants to have full transparency with suppliers.

Elsewhere, Primark now works with a range of external experts and organisations and reports transparently on its supply chain activities to the ETI. Its report is also reviewed each year by NGOs including Save the Children, CARE, and Anti-Slavery International among others. The ETI has recognised the company as a ‘Leader’ which is the highest category awarded to brands.  You can read more about Primark's work on their Ethical Trading site.

So until the next exposé, the bottom line from the supermarkets and other retailers is that they are investing money, time and research into making ethical and environmental changes to the way they produce their clothing ranges.

Suspicions

But suspicions remain. We naturally equate low prices with unethical practises.

Our suspicions are further compounded by reports in the media. It is hard to accept the work of the ETI and the companies when contradictory reports surface so regularly.

Ethical Consumer magazine scored all three stores (Asda, Sainsbury’s and Tesco) at the bottom of its ethical shopping guide for clothes for 2010/2011.

But are we prepared to pay more for the peace of mind? Do you shop for clothes in supermarkets? Or are you put off by the ethical uncertainty around these products?

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